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Bidirectional charging during grid outages

https://www.jefftk.com/p/bidirectional-charging-during-grid-outages
I just run 120v extension cords from my EV during power outages (it has 2 15A capable outlets). I added a manual transfer switch to my furnace so it can be plugged into an extension cord, and I can power my furnace, blower, refrigerator and freezer, wifi and internet for a couple of days.

I really wanted to set up an automatic transfer switch for the whole house from my car in v2h mode, but I found it impossible to spend any amount of money and be confident that the system would actually work with my current EV (the wallbox quasar _sounds_ promising but I couldn't find any reports that it actually _works_)

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This entire area is a mess, I spent a year or so trying to get bidirectional charging set up at home in the UK. I even went to several of the vendors mentioned in that post and said "I've got basically a blank cheque and permission to do whatever you want however you want, even use it all as a case study to make this work" and nowhere could/would do it.

The most frustrating thing is it looks like V2G is easier and more accessible than V2H[1]: it's easier to give control of your battery to your energy provider and bypass your house to help the energy companies than it is just to power your own home with your own car battery.

Technically, this is ridiculous. You don't bypass your house when you do V2G.

My tinfoil hat is clearly making me too cynical when I say this, but I think it's this way because of the relationship between energy providers and law makers. These are the same energy providers that use "changes in wholesale pricing" to justify increasing how much they sell me electricity for, whilst reducing the amount they pay me for the solar electricity I sell them.

[1] https://octopus.energy/power-pack/

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My biggest problem with batteries for grid outages is that the only outages I am actually concerned with would drain them to zero before the outage is resolved. For short term, smaller/portable batteries are fantastic at bridging a few hours. Plug the wifi & fridge in and you can sometimes go for 2-3 days.

I am not aware of any economically feasible way to run my 5+ ton HVAC system full-time on batteries after a hurricane just reset all the infrastructure, and you do need to run it full time because of the insane humidity and latent heat that follows a tropical system. Doing the math, I'd need something approaching 800kWh of storage to ride through this kind of event (7+ days). This is approaching half a million dollars in batteries. I can install an extremely nice 1800 RPM generator for ~15% of this cost, which would also include a year's worth of propane buried on the property.

I think a simple generator on an ATS remains undefeated from an engineering perspective. If you have an air cooled unit, the maintenance is not much more complicated than with a lawnmower. You just have one extra spark plug to deal with, and sometimes the oil pressure sensor needs replacing. I can get my stubborn Honda generator to start with all kinds of weird tricks. If my Ecoflow battery starts to act weird, I have very little recourse by comparison.

Batteries alone are not suitable for long duration outages, but solar+batteries, designed correctly, can not only supply enough power during long outages, it can get you to be off-grid entirely in the first place at a dramatically more cost effective number than your $500k quoted - perhaps 1/5 or less for a system suitable for your needs of 115kWh per day. So while the system might be more expensive than a generator alone, it can still beat on value because it provides power all year round.

You also do an unfair comparison here - you are OK with portable batteries providing only fridge & WiFi for a couple hours, but expect whole-hole batteries to last a week. Many people use whole-home batteries to bridge typical outages that last <24 hours, and do so without ever having to notice any change of use of their home - powering their full heating/cooling etc.

Batteries and generators are also not mutually exclusive. You can install a solar+battery system because it makes economic sense and pays for itself while providing zero-downtime backup for most outages, while also backing that up with a generator for longer term edge case outages eg long extended outages during the winter or where there is an unusually long “solar drought” - it really depends on how much resilience you are designing for.

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You don’t need to run your 5+ ton HVAC full time. Get an EV and run the AC there (no more than 3kW). Sleep in the EV. A typical 80kWh EV battery will last several days. And this is not just theoretical; plenty of people have done this.

For Christ’s sake a natural disaster just struck and you want to live like nothing happened? The entitlement is unbelievable.

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Assuming you have enough solar, how about running your 5+ ton HVAC system only when there is enough production? And properly insulating your home, of course, using it as a thermal battery of sorts.

If there is a grid outage, surely one can shift consumption to solar production hours while using the battery for the always-on systems (fridge, lights, some computing...).

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>I think a simple generator on an ATS remains undefeated from an engineering perspective.

Let me just inject a bit of nuance here to avoid what I think is an unintentional sleight if hand...

For the small sliver of the population that lives under threat of a large area week long blackout in a hot humid climate, I think a simple generator on an ATS remains undefeated from an engineering perspective.

For the vast majority of the population, it's incredibly rare to lose power for that long, and need AC 24/7 afterwards. It basically only happens in the gulf.

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> am not aware of any economically feasible way to run my 5+ ton HVAC system full-time on batteries after a hurricane just reset all the infrastructure, and you do need to run it full time because of the insane humidity and latent heat that follows a tropical system.

Which region is this?

Are hurricanes that reset all the infrastructure a recent phenomena in this region? How did people manage in the 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s etc before these rather large (5+ ton HVAC) were even an option?

>Doing the math, I'd need something approaching 800kWh of storage to ride through this kind of event (7+ days)

How airtight is your House? You may be better off with a tighter house to reduce the infiltration load from the outdoor air and possibly section out the house so that post hurricane the primary living spaces are the only spaces that are constantly getting fresh air and there fore humidity load and for the non primary spaces, you dehumidify once and hold it there.

>I think a simple generator on an ATS remains undefeated from an engineering perspective. If you have an air cooled unit

Yes, if your outages are under lets say 10 days a year a generator + fuel will be orders of magnitude cheaper wrt TCO, unless your grid is super expensive.

You average 100kWh of use per day?

What’s 5 ton in new money, 5kW power draw max? Are you planning to run that full power for a week?

Yes, that much in batteries would cost a lot but uk prices right now would be ~87.5k for the batteries themselves (so a shade over $100k I guess). £7k for 64kWh

You’re not going to run HVAC, but I’m more than happy to have the freezer running, the light on the TV etc
Batteries are for load shifting between day and night and for short term backups. Yes, 7+ days of outages do require means of replenishing the battery, whether it's from a diesel unit or a solar. That's not a battery cost problem.
I have a 100kwh battery (my car, Zeekr 7x, in Australia). That can run quite a few days or even a week with careful usage.
Yeah it's hard for batteries alone to compete with generators, unless we put a lot of weight on things like noise, or are just focused on small loads like fridges.

I think the more interesting comparison is generators vs solar, though it depends on the local weather etc.

This is exactly what the post is trying to address: during a serious long-term outage, batteries on their own will run empty. What you need is the ability to recharge batteries from solar during an extended outage, while also flexibly drawing from the batteries when solar isn't enough.
I’ve been looking into a smaller scale option to run limited items medium term on part time hours…

Best option so far involves a mix of batteries that are charged from the mains when available and topped up from a mix of solar and a LPG/multi-fuel generator.

But unless you want to go very large on the solar and generator size it’s unlikely to cover everything full time.

You can run a fridge, natural gas furnace and some lights for a few days on 5kWh (I've done it a few times).

EVs have 60kWh+, which should get you through a week (if not two) easily.

You can run your hvac fan and an oversized dehumidifier for a while off batteries. You don't need the whole hvac system.
I have 18kw of solar and 30kwh of batteries with a 5ton ac it will run it will run indefinitely assuming the sun comes out, if it doesn’t I have a chargeverter that can keep the batteries charged off my RV’s diesel generator or gas portable.

My solar system generates excess power daily and has zero maintenance, the generators are pure money sinks for backup power and require regular maintenance.

Options are nice.

Also heat pump water heater and dryer help reduce load along with efficient variable speed hvac and good insulation.

Fuel is a problem during a storm too and a buried large propane tank is a good way to go but very expensive on top of installation.

An electric car with bi directional charging would add to flexibility either charging from home system or being able to go find power and bring it home.

Ideally I would like a gasoline hybrid with power out like a F150 power boost and a fully electric with large battery and V2L any Tesla would do now as they all have 2400w out I believe Cybertruck can do more. My chargeverter can take 120v or 240v

How about reducing energy use? In general, but then especially after a grid-destroying event that keeps you offline for a week? You surely don't need to have everything HVAC running on full blast in the whole house during that time. And your laundry and next oven long cook can probably also wait until the grid power is back.

If you then add some solar into the mix, it doesn't sound as dramatic anymore.

There is something in between flashlights and a grid scale battery that van power your full electric home.

I just have a plugin battery that I can run the lights, fridges, phone chargers off of for 24 hrs. That is good enough for me, and I think most people. Anything shorter, and it's not necessary to run the rest, much longer, there also isn't because apparently shit hit the fan and we're not necessarily assuming the power comes back on in the next weeks or ever.

> and you do need to run it full time

Or what? Are you made of salt or sugar?

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That's a valid concern for you where you are.

For me where I am, things are different. We don't get hurricanes here.

Our longest power outages tend to follow ice storms. We need heat because these things happen in the winter time when it's cold outside, and that's dangerous for various human and infrastructure reasons (pipes freezing and breaking).

But I use natural gas for heat and I don't recall ever having a weather-related natural gas outage. So that's helpful. And ice storms tend to happen when it's cold, but not damn cold -- that helps, too.

My furnace uses about 600W of electricity while running. It does not run all the time. According to my charts on a random day/night cycle last February with a high of -8C and a low of -16C, it was running with an average duty cycle of about 30% over that period.

600 Watts × 30% × 24 hours = around 4.3kWh for that 24-hour period, just for heat.

I'll also need to keep the fridge cold, and some lights running, and will surely be getting some use out of a laptop and some network stuff.

A common-enough home battery size is 48v, 100Ah, or 4.8kWh. They cost around $1,000 right now (some more, some less) in DIY-friendly shapes.

As a spitball effort: If I live more-conservatively and dial back the thermostat (it is a power outage, after all), I can probably get enough power to live a productive, comfortable-enough life on one such 4.8kWh battery, per day. Ish. If I'm careful.

So for batteries, alone, I'm at $1,000 per day. I'll need an inverter as well. That can be either minimal or extensively integrated, grid-tied or not, solar-accepting or not, and etc. Let's just pin that at $3000, with the wiring and accoutrements, and assume I'm doing the labor for free.

I'm now at ~$10k to survive a week of power outage at home in the winter on batteries alone. That's expensive[1], yes, but a whole lot less than half a million bucks. A whole lot less than a very nice, installed, low-RPM generator, too. :)

...except, realistically: It's more like $13k for a week, because future-me will surely not be as careful with energy use as present-me suggests that I should be and 3 more batteries adds some safety capacity. :)

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And that can be supplemented. Solar input can obviously be used (if available), but may be limited by winter sunlight conditions and storm accumulation.

Gas-fired generators can also be used. An inexpensive-ish portable inverter generator does the trick well when combined with, say, an EG4-6000XP do-all inverter.

That particular inverter wants to see at least 2 of these batteries connected, so let's play with that minimum: 2 batteries, 1 inverter, 1 generator. ~1.4 batteries worth of load every 24 hours, as with the safe $13k figure above.

The generator can be run pretty hard (it has a continuous max rating for a reason), and it can be run intermittently. The EG4 allows programming of generator input power.

So let's pick a generator: Champion 201509. It can do 7kW continuous, and we'll load it to 75% of that, or 5,250 W. From this 5,250W, it provides for the house's present consumption while it runs, and it restores the charge of the two batteries to 100% SoC[2].

If it is run once per day, it can do this job in about 2 hours and then be switched off until tomorrow.

If it runs like this once per day for a week, I guesstimate that it uses about 11 gallons of gas over this week. That's a very manageable quantity of fuel.

So we're at $2k for batteries, $3k for inverter+stuff, and $2k for an appropriate generator. That's $7k to run ~indefinitely, or as long as I can keep bringing in fuel, with enough power to survive a blackout (with heat, lights, refrigeration, some entertainment) long-enough on batteries alone for the roads to become passable and then decide if I'm making a run to fill up the gas cans with fresh fuel.

Not so bad for a relatively quiet time of living in a temporary blackout, and the house gains a gains a big UPS for some stuff (which is nice). (The installed gear also offers an easy entry into solar power.)

But I'm not in hurricane country. And while I do love me some aircon, our summers are pretty survivable, usually. My needs are not the same as your needs are. :)

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[1]: Except, for the price of this kind of self-sufficiency: Draining/blowing out the plumbing and staying at a hotel or with friends/family for a few days in an unaffected area might be a better option. The cheap portable air compressor I have doesn't leak down at all, so it's always got a full tank of air while just sitting there unplugged. I'll figure something out: Power outages are very quiet, creative times.

[2]: 100% SoC? Yep. It's a temporary blackout where the batteries are operating as a UPS, not a long-term operation where the typical 20%-80% SoC goals are important for longevity. They won't stay at 100% for very long, anyway.

Oil generators have an “artificially” low price because there’s a lot of demand for oil for other things. If the other sources of demand go away, the price may become unfavorable even if gas generators make a lot more sense from a redundancy perspective.
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A fundamental problem here is that V2H during an outage requires a disconnection device (in the NEC this is a “microgrid interconnect device”), and the manufacturers of such things have made no effort whatsoever to standardize the control protocol. This means that you cannot build an islanded-V2H-ready house and just plug in a car. So the whole concept is kind of dead in the water.

At least Tesla is vertically integrated enough to pull it off within their own product portfolio, but this has approximately no value if you want to use a non-Tesla car.

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Tesla just brought this functionality to new Model 3 and Model Y cars as of Oct 1. It requires at least one Powerwall 3 to enable bidirectional V2H - what they call Powershare. But those cars can now power the home and charge from solar while the grid is offline.
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—- Types of V2G ——

V2H - charger inverts DC to grid AC

V2L - EV inverts DC to grid AC

In case of V2H it therefore doesn’t matter what supported EV you are using, rather what charger you are using.

In general for changeover during a black out, V2L is probably better, because with V2H the charger itself needs POWER to boot up and request V2G whereas V2L you can start from the EV itself.

Also, generally speaking V2H is designed to be grid-following and certified to half a dozen standards whereas V2L forms an isolated microgrid, and a lot of the rules are tossed out, which is what you want.

For V2L you just need a generator changeover to isolate your house from the grid (most commonly just a manual switch), and a reverse plug to connect EV output to switchboard input.

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The other problem with purely EV based home backup is that if you have to drive somewhere you house no longer has power.

IMO such a system should be additive to a home based battery backup system with solar, which should be sized for a day of emergency (minimal) home usage.

Such a system could top up from the EV when the EV is plugged in - assuming the PVs aren't producing.

Most Tesla models don't support bidirectional because they had free Supercharging, and also probably because having your car not full at all times is not always the best experience. Other brands like Nissan had always supported V2H and in fact it has always been a selling point of OG leaf that it could double as the Powerwall equivalent since back in 2012.

Most V2H systems don't support zero-interrupt automatic transition because it has no means to know if the perceived grid outage is accidental or intentional, and if intentional, trying to back it up could injure/kill electrician who commanded it. But if the system is operating off-grid, I think those can be configured to be always uninterruptible.

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You can do it with an F150 lightning if you have the 10kW inverter. Rather than use the charge port and the official charger, you use the 30A 240V plug in the bed to power your panel. You can charge the truck while using this too.
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I really wonder if part of the reason this isn’t more widespread is that utilities with variable rate electricity pricing would get burnt on it. Imagine charging during cheap time then dumping 5-20kWh back onto the grid during expensive time. You could have a positive ROI on a vehicle you regularly drive (timing permitting)
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One of the problems with companies like GM is that they still see this as a premium feature and require their hardware (not just a charger). Tesla requires not only their chargers but also their inverters and cars.

What is missing is a spec that inverters and cars and chargers can all follow, then we will see mass adoption.

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SAE-J2847 includes "how to convert your building side to supporting BPT grid works, and pairs well - it looks - with ISO 15118-20 BPT. (and reasonably well with ISO-15118-2 and the BPT extensions in SAE-J2847). Anyway, supporting AC grids requires some additional electronics both in battery systems and in the local hookups.

I haven't explored the actual space much, as I work on ISO 15118-20 for busses, and a bus as a local grid backup scales pretty well. (and even then, I work protocol level, not electrical).

> The only way I can see to do this today is with Tesla Powershare + Cybertruck, which says "If the system includes a UL 1741-listed solar system

Since this was posted Tesla rolled out PowerShare to recent ModelY and some other cars. Not sure about solar recharge though. Where I live storms come in winter and I have natgas so most of the power will go to fridges and electronics, which will hopefully last long enough.

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I'm not sure what the laws are like in the USA I assume they are similar to elsewhere.

However I think there are two problems here that have to be solved:

1) you need to island your house, that is, physically disconnect your house from the grid

2) once you have disconnected the grid, you then need to provide some sort of pilot sine wave to allow the plug to function.

I have an islanding system for my (house) battery and solar, so in theory, I could have a bidirectional charger whilst being off grid. However both my car and charger don't support that (my charger is also deeply shit, and has no local API access.)

The bigger problem, which is tangentially touched on, is that vanishingly few chargers can actually support islanding. It makes the installation harder, and drives up the compliance and installation cost[1]. this means that you are taping together two disparate systems together (or going all in on enphase, which also has a limited local API)

There isn't a spec for a household systems to talk together to do energy management. currently I use homeassistant to monitor the variable electricity prices, car plug status and how happy the fucking powerwall is, so that I can make sure the car charges from solar, without draining the house battery to 0, or only charge at night when the price us uber cheap (and also not drain the house battery).

The amount of sysadminig to make that work reliably means that no normal person is able to achieve it. The problem for consumers is that there isn't any motivation for manufactures to work together on this. because they want to vertically integrate.

[1] The installation cost for what is effectively a very thin software wrapper around a local contactor is egregious.

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Wouldn't the charge / discharge cycles reduce the life of the car battery? I presume the same is true of in-home batteries, but although an in-home battery is an extra capital expense, I imagine the replacement cost of in-home batteries is quite a bit lower, isn't it? Would be interested to know more about the medium-to-long term economics of this.
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Likewise, there are plenty of plug-in hybrid cars which ought to be great home emergency backup generators (ie. they have a 40+ kilowatt generator and 7+ kilowatt inverter), but very few have this functionality even if the hardware in most cases supports it and would simply require a firmware update.

I had good luck with telling claude to rewrite my laptop bios to enable various power modes which were theoretically possible but disabled by firmware, like powering a fullsize screen from the laptop battery over usbc.

Maybe I'll tell claude to rewrite the car firmware too...

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I live rural and I'm hoping the next decade will bring a wave of cheaper safer sodium ion battery options. Something I'd feel a lot more comfortable with putting in or around my home since they don't have thermal runaway issues, their materials are theoretically cheaper, and they can withstand colder temperatures.

While I'd like to use my EV as backup, the cost and integration issues right now are just not sensible. The utilities and manufacturers have made it too cost prohibitive.

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One of the biggest misses in NACS (J3400) is bi-directional power in the spec. SAE J3400/2 will fix it.
I have a Tesla 3. There’s no good way to get a lot of power out of the car as an end user except via the wheels. You can get like ~1kW of 12VDC via the dc-to-dc computer/accessory system but even that is pushing it.

I am saddened by this. I’d like to be able to access the large amount of power in it in a pinch.

There is also no good way to charge it as an end user from a DC source like my large 48VDC solar battery system. I end up having to invert the DC to 220VAC which then charges it normally (involving rectifying it back to DC for the onboard batteries) - an unnecessary and inefficient double conversion.

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